The Midnight Train: The Modern Art collector and the Architect

The passion for color at the Beyeler Foundation Basel Switzerland

The passion for color at the Beyeler Foundation Basel Switzerland

Imagine, stepping into the sleeper train car from Paris, France to Basel, Switzerland...and the song that suddenly dances through my mind was “Midnight Train to Georgia”.  Hello Pips, welcome to my brain!

The night train to almost anywhere is exciting. The idea that daylight will rise with my eyes towards a new adventure is possibly the sole reason I became a photographer.

Traveling  through the river Styx’ currents always conjures thrills and chills that challenge you through darkness and light. Something always swings you between heaven and hell.

Boarding my October New York to London flight( one month after 9/11) amid dozens of growling dogs was an auspicious way to begin an adventure. Tensions and fears filled all passengers’ minds and eyes on that flight. Terrorism can be a cancer that attacks all hearts and souls.

London was the beginning of a series of cultural portraits. I followed London, with  Paris and many more moments.

The true reckoning began on the overnight train from Paris to Basel.

A dead sleep on the train made it possible to dream about vistas stolen in the night: Versailles, Beaune, natural parcs and more. Yes a ghost from Dickens came by to remind me that my passport was stolen.

Entering Basel without identification made me feel vulnerable, rudderless. Uncertainty can be an inspiration.

I was there to photograph one of the great collectors/art dealers of the western world, Ernst Beyeler. The Beyeler Foundation designed by the star architect Renzo Piano was considered among the great destinations in modern art.

Ernst Beyeler, Foundation Beyeler Basel

Ernst Beyeler, Foundation Beyeler Basel

Beyeler was so much more than any collector I had met. He was worldly of course. But he knew his collection like you know your reflection in a mirror. Hundreds of collectors I have photographed collected trophies, Ernst collected pieces of the heart.

It is difficult to be transparent in these moments. But I do forgive Beyeler and Piano. They at different moments sniffed my pedigree. The cultural elite prefer the company of their equals. I passed the test. I clearly was not an equal, but I had traveled amongst the currents of the contemporary art world. I had a chit.

Renzo Piano

Renzo Piano

The “Ernst” portrait was a moment of trust. Thousand of portraits gave me the gravitas to be bold. Beyeler many years my senior entrusted me to make the right portrait. The footprint that guided our experience spoke to the space and light. Renzo does not allow you to ignore his talents. 

Ernst unleashed me through the galleries to see what I needed to see. I saw what people refer to as “god’s gifts in many creations. But Giacometti stole my heart. When was the last time you remember seeing a sculpture dance without a partner ... dance unadorned by history. He was beautiful.

Giacometti

Giacometti

9/11 inflicted harm on the human race. My dance with a culture apart was coming to an end.

I had to face the American army as if I was in enemy territory. Bern, Switzerland was where I had to go to receive a temporary passport. Howitzers and more traced my steps into the consulate. My party was over.

Reality swept through me in the most shattering way. We were about to go to battle...nerves were shattered, lives frayed.

New York was soon my home again. Beyeler, Piano and other sessions with my camera made me feel alive to see another day.